Мода, история, музеи. Рождение музея одежды

Библиография

Анкерсмит 2007 – Анкерсмит Ф. Возвышенный исторический опыт. М.: Европа, 2007.

Вельфлин 2020 – Вельфлин Г. Основные понятия истории искусств. Учебное пособие / Пер. А. А. Франковского. СПб.: Лань, Планета музыки, 2020.

Гечи, Караминас 2015 – Гечи А., Караминас В. Введение. Мода и искусство: точки соприкосновения // Мода и искусство / Ред. Гечи А., Караминас В. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2015. С. 11–29.

де ла Хэй 2014 – де ла Хэй Э. Журнал Vogue и экспозиции в Музее Виктории и Альберта / Пер. Е. Кардаш // Теория моды: одежда, тело, культура. 2014. № 31. С. 273–298.

Палмер 2012 – Палмер А. Руками не трогать: создание эмоционального и информационного содержания музейных экспозиций костюма и текстиля / Пер. Е. Кардаш // Теория моды: одежда, тело, культура. 2012. № 25. С. 277–314.

Рикёр 2004 – Рикёр П. Память, история, забвение. М.: Издательство гуманитарной литературы, 2004.

Стил 2012 – Стил В. Музейное качество: мода на выставке / Пер. Л. Оборина // Теория моды: одежда, тело, культура. 2012. № 24. С. 209–234.

Стил 2015 – Стил В. Мода // Мода и искусство / Ред. Гечи А., Караминас В. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2015. С. 30–47.

Тейлор 2014 – Тейлор М. Культурный переход. Мода в контексте культурного диалога между коммерцией и искусством / Пер. Е. Демидовой // Теория моды: одежда, тело, культура. 2014. № 32. С. 81–103.

Уилсон 2012 – Уилсон Э. Облаченные в мечты: мода и современность / Пер. Е. Демидовой, Е. Кардаш, Е. Ляминой. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2012.

Холландер 2015 – Холландер Э. Взгляд сквозь одежду / Пер. В. Михайлина. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2015.

1,659,647 Visitors 2018 – 1,659,647 Visitors to Costume Institute’s Heavenly Bodies Show at Met Fifth Avenue and Met Cloisters Make It the Most Visited Exhibition in The Met’s History 2018. Metropolitan Museum of Art [media release]. 2018. October 11. www.metmuseum.org/press/news/2018/heavenly-bodies-most-visited-exhibition (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

24 Hours 2012 – 24 Hours with Sonnet Stanfill. 2012. May 16. www.stylist.co.uk/stylist-network/work-life/sonnet-stanfill-curator-at-the-vanda (дата обращения 16.11.2016).

Adburgham 1955 – Adburgham A. The Museum of Costume // The Manchester Guardian. 1955. June 10. P. 3.

Adburgham 1962 – Adburgham A. Clothes Past // The Guardian. 1962. June 22. P. 8.

Adburgham 1963 – Adburgham A. Museum of Costume at Bath // The Guardian. 1963. May 13. P. 6.

Alpers 1991 – Alpers S. The Museum as a Way of Seeing // Karp I., Lavine S. (eds) Exhibiting Cultures: The Poetics and Politics of Museum Display. Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1991. P. 25–32.

American Home Economics Association 1932 – American Home Economics Association. Historical Costume Exhibit // Journal of Home Economics. 1932. 24 (7). P. 651.

American Home Economics Association 1937 – American Home Economics Association. Newark // Journal of Home Economics. 1937. 29 (4). P. 282.

Anaya 2013 – Anaya S. Are Blockbuster Museum Shows Helping or Hurting Smaller Fashion Exhibitions? // Business of Fashion. 2013. June 12. www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/are-blockbuster-museum-shows-helpingor-hurting-smaller-fashion-exhibitions (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

Ancient Costumes in Art Museum 1911 – Ancient Costumes in Art Museum // New York Times. 1911. April 11. P. 13.

Ancient Court Dresses 1833 – Ancient Court Dresses // The Spectator. 1833. 6 (257). June 1. P. 503.

Ancient Models 1955 – Ancient Models [newsreel] // Pathé. 1955. August 15.

Anderson 2000 – Anderson F. Museums as Fashion Media // Bruzzi S., Church Gibson P. (eds) Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis. London: Routledge, 2000. P. 371–389.

Ankersmit 2005 – Ankersmit F. Sublime Historical Experience. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2005.

Antiquities 1873 – Antiquities at the International Exhibition – Costumes // The Antiquary. 1873. 3–4. P. 219–220, 243–244, 271–272, 303, 351.

Appadurai 1986 – Appadurai A. Introduction: Commodities and the Politics of Value // Appadurai A. (ed.). The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986. P. 3–63.

Appleton Read 1929 – Appleton Read H. Rainbow House Talks on Art of Dress Draw Crowds to Brooklyn Museum // Brooklyn Daily Eagle. 1929. October 24. 6E.

Arnold 1973 – Arnold J. A Handbook of Costume. New York: SG Phillips, 1973.

Arnold 1984 – Arnold J. Costumes at Palazzo Pitti, Florence // The Burlington Magazine. 1984. 126 (975). P. 371–378.

Ashelford 1996 – Ashelford J. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society 1500–1914. London: National Trust Enterprises, 1996.

Association Valentino Garavani Archives 2012 – Association Valentino Garavani Archives // Valentino Garavani Museum. 2012. www.valentinogaravanimuseum.com (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

Atkinson 2017 – Atkinson N. The Art of the Deal // Globe and Mail. 2017. April 8. L.4.

Aynsley 2006 – Aynsley J. The Modern Period Room: A Contradiction in Terms? // Keeble T., Martin B., Sparke P. (eds) The Modern Period Room: The Construction of the Exhibited Interior 1870 to 1950. London: Routledge, 2006. P. 8–30.

Baedeker 1870 – Baedeker K. The Rhine and Northern Germany. Koblenz: Karl Baedeker, 1870.

Bal 1996 – Bal M. The Discourse of the Museum // Greenberg R., Ferguson B. W., Nairne S. (eds) Thinking about Exhibitions. London: Routledge, 1996. P. 145–158.

Bal 2003 – Bal M. Visual Essentialism and the Object of Visual Culture // Journal of Visual Culture. 2003. 2 (1). P. 5–32.

Bann 1984 – Bann S. The Clothing of Clio: A Study of the Representation of History in Nineteenth-Century Britain and France. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1984.

Bass-Krueger 2018 – Bass-Krueger M. Fashion Collections, Collectors, and Exhibitions in France, 1874–1900: Historical Imagination, the Spectacular Past, and the Practice of Restoration // Fashion Theory. Online. 2018. January 31.

Bather 1912 – Bather F. A. The London Museum // Museums Journal. 1912. 11. P. 290–297.

Bathke et al. 2016 – Bathke L. E., Fung J., Petersen G., Gero C., Mina L. Mannequins: Disassembled // AIC News. 2016. 41 (2). P. 1, 3–5.

Bauzano 2012 – Bauzano G. (ed.) Mannequins Bonaveri: A History of Creativity, Fashion, and Art. Milan: Skira, 2012.

Baxandall 1991 – Baxandall M. Exhibiting Intention: Some Preconditions of the Visual Display of Culturally Purposeful Objects // Karp I., Lavine S. (eds) Exhibiting Cultures: The Poetics and Politics of Museum Display. Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1991. P. 33–41.

Beaudoin-Ross & Cooper 1992 – Beaudoin-Ross J., Cooper C. Form and Fashion: Nineteenth Century Montreal Dress // Exhibition file. 1992. McCord Museum archives.

Beckett 1951 – Beckett M. Out of London’s Fashion Museum // Picture Post. 1951. April 21. P. 18–19.

Behlen & Supianek-Chassay 2016 – Behlen B., Supianek-Chassay C. Peopling the Pleasure Garden: Creating an Immersive Display at the Museum of London // Brooks M. M., Eastop D. D. (eds) Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute, 2016. P. 199–212.

Bell 1958 – Bell Q. The Greatness of a Minor Art // The Listener. 1958. April 3. P. 586.

Bender 1961 – Bender M. Fashion Historian Eyes the Future for Stylists // New York Times. 1961. November 21. P. 42.

Bennett 1995 – Bennett T. The Birth of the Museum. London: Routledge, 1995.

Bennett 1996 – Bennett T. The Exhibitionary Complex // Greenberg R., Ferguson B. W., Nairne S. (eds) Thinking about Exhibitions. London: Routledge, 1996. P. 58–80.

Bennett 1998 – Bennett T. Pedagogic Objects, Clean Eyes and Popular Instruction: On Sensory Regimes and Museum Didactics // Configurations. 1998. 6 (3). P. 345–371.

Bernier 1981 – Bernier O. The Eighteenth-Century Woman. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1981.

Blanco & Vázquez-Lopez 2013 – Blanco J. F., Vázquez-Lopez R. J. Body Damage: Exploring the Beauty of Damaged Clothing. Unpublished paper delivered at Uncommon Beauty, Midwest Region Annual Meeting & Symposium. Chicago, IL. 2013. September 20–21.

Bok 1998 – Bok Kim S. Is Fashion Art? // Fashion Theory. 1998. 2 (1). P. 51–72.

Bolton 2004 – Bolton A. WILD: Fashion Untamed. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2004.

Bolton & Koda 2010 – Bolton A., Koda H. American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity. Exhibition book. // Costume Institute Archives, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010.

Bowles 2014 – Bowles H. Vogue and the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute: Parties, Exhibitions, People. New York: Abrams, 2014.

Breck 1932 – Breck J. A Special Exhibition of Costumes // The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. 1932. 27 (5). P. 121–126.

Brentnall 1956 – Brentnall M. The Museum of Costume // Coming Events in Britain. 1956. July. P. 36–37, 50.

Breward 1995 – Breward C. The Culture of Fashion: A New History of Fashionable Dress. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1995.

Breward 2003a – Breward C. Fashion. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2003.

Breward 2003b – Breward C. Shock of the Frock // The Guardian. 2003. October 18. P. B18.

Brieber et al. 2014 – Brieber D., Nadal M., Leder H., Rosenberg R. Art in Time and Space: Context Modulates the Relation between Art Experience and Viewing Time // PLoS ONE. 2014. 9 (6).

Brief Statement 1941 – A Brief Statement Concerning the Set-up of the Museum of Costume Art. January 14, 1941. Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives Office of the Secretary Subject Files 1870–1950, C82393: Costume Art Museum 1936–44, 1946.

Briggs 1972 – Briggs R. T. Displaying Your Costumes: Some Effective Techniques // American Association for State and Local History Technical Leaflet. 33. History News. 1972. 27. P. 11.

Bringing the Past to Life 1911 – Bringing the Past to Life // New York Times. 1911. August 13. P. 8.

Brooks 2016 – Brooks M. M. Reflecting Presence and Absence: Displaying Dress of Known Individuals // Brooks M. M., Eastop D. D. (eds) Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute, 2016. P. 19–32.

Brooks & Eastop 2016 – Brooks M. M., Eastop D. D. (eds) Refashioning and Redress: Conserving and Displaying Dress. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute, 2016.

Brunn & White 2002 – Brunn M., White J. Museum Mannequins. Edmonton: Alberta Regional Group of Conservators, 2002.

Brush 1948 – Brush R. Museums and the Textile Industry // Museum News. 1948. 26 (12). December 15. P. 7–8.

Buck 1958 – Buck A. Costume. Handbook for Museum Curators, Part D: Art, Section 3. London: Museums Association, 1958.

Buckley & Clark 2016 – Buckley C., Clark H. In Search of the Everyday: Museums, Collections, and Representations of Fashion in London and New York // Jenss H. (ed.) Fashion Studies: Research Methods, Sites and Practices. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2016. P. 25–41.

Buick 2012 – Buick N. Framing Fashion Curation: A Theoretical, Historical and Practical Perspective. PhD thesis. Queensland University of Technology, 2012.

Burbank 1917 – Burbank E. Woman as Decoration. New York: Dodd Mead and Company, 1917.

Burbidge 1913 – Burbidge R. Letter to Sir Cecil Smith, August 16, 1913 // Harrods donor file MA/1/H926. 1913. Victoria and Albert Museum archives.

Burton 1999 – Burton A. Vision and Accident: The Story of the Victoria and Albert Museum. London: V&A Publications, 1999.

Bustle 1941 – Bustle. Fashions in Clothing // New Zealand Herald. 1941. November 11. P. 4.

Byrde 1980 – Byrde P. Museum of Costume. Bath: Bath City Council, 1980.

Byrde 1984 – Byrde P. The Collections and Collecting Policies of the Major British Museums // Textile History. 1984. 15 (2). P. 147–170.

Byrde 1985 – Byrde P. The Museum of Costume and Fashion Research Centre in Bath // The Tenth West of England Antiques Fair. Bath, 1985.

Cain et al. 1900 – Cain G. et al. Musée rétrospectif des classes 85 & 86: Le costume et ses accessoires à l’exposition universelle internationale de 1900. Paris; Saint-Cloud: Belin Frères, 1900.

Cain 2012 – Cain V. «Attraction, Attention, and Desire»: Consumer Culture as Pedagogical Paradigm in Museums in the United States, 1900–1930 // Paedagogica Historica: International Journal of the History of Education. 2012. 48 (5). P. 745–769.

Calefato 2004 – Calefato P. The Clothed Body / Transl. L. Adams. Berg: Oxford, 2004.

Callister 1976 – Callister J. H. Dress From Three Centuries. Hartford: Wadsworth Atheneum, 1976.

Carpentier 2011 – Carpentier N. Facing the Death of the Author: Cultural Professional’s Identity Work and the Fantasies of Control // MATRIZes. 2011. 4 (2). January – June. P. 183–204.

Carter 1967 – Carter J. Princess Opens Modesty to Mod Costume Display and Has Fun Doing It // Globe and Mail. 1967. May 17. P. 13.

Cathcart & Taylor 2014 – Cathcart M., Taylor A. F. Does Fashion Belong in Art Galleries? // Books and Arts Daily. 2014. November 25. www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/booksandarts/does-fashion-belong-in-art-galleries/5908890 (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

Catto 1967 – Catto H. Modesty to Mod: 187 Years of Style // The Globe and Mail. 1967. May 4. P. W11.

Caught by the Camera 1934 – Caught by the Camera No. 14 [newsreel] // Pathé. 1934. December 24.

Cavallo 1963 – Cavallo A. S. Introduction // She Walks in Splendor: Great Costumes, 1550–1950. Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 1963. P. 7–9.

Cavallo 1971 – Cavallo A. S. Fashion Plate: An Opening Exhibition for the New Costume Institute // The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. 1971. 30 (1). August – September. P. 44–48.

Century of Style 1945 – Century of Style on Display Here // Montreal Gazette. 1945. June 2. P. 5.

Champigneulle 1915 – Champigneulle B. Paris Costume Gallery Portrays Two Centuries // The Globe and Mail. 1951. March 5. P. 17.

Champroux 2002 – Champroux N. From Mandarin Silk Ciselé Velvet to Navy Blue Wool Gabardine: Three Centuries of Men’s Fashion at the McCord Museum // Material History Review. 2002. 56. P. 63–65.

Charles-Roux 2002 – Charles-Roux E. Théatre de la mode: fashion dolls: The survival of haute couture. Portland: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2002.

Chrisman-Campbell 2017 – Chrisman-Campbell T. Confessions of a Costume Curator // The Atlantic. 2017. August 18. www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2017/08/confessions-of-a-costume-curator/536961/ (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

Christy 1974 – Christy M. Old-Time Styles by Eleanor Brenner // Reading Eagle. 1974. June 18. P. 11.

Chubb 1986 – Chubb A. Stepping Down through the Ages of French Fashion // Daily Telegraph. 1986. January 22. P. 15.

Church Osborn 1944 – Church Osborn W. Letter to Horace, H. F. Jayne. 20 December 1944 // Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives, C82394, Office of the Secretary Subject Files 1870–1950.

Clark & Vänskä 2017 – Clark H., Vänskä A. Introduction: Fashion Curating in the Museum and Beyond // Vänskä A., Clark H. (eds) Fashion Curating: Critical Practice in the Museum and Beyond. London: Bloomsbury, 2017. P. 1–15.

Clark 2011 – Clark J. Re-Styling History: D. V. At the Costume Institute // Vreeland L. Immordino (ed.). Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel. New York: Abrams, 2011. P. 227–243.

Clark et al. 2014 – Clark J., De La Haye A., Horsley J. Exhibiting Fashion: Before and after 1971. London: Yale University Press, 2014.

Clark 1975 – Clark R. The Anne Schofield Costume Collection // Art Bulletin of Victoria 16. 1975. www.ngv.vic.gov.au/essay/the-anne-schofield-costumecollection/ (дата обращения 28.09.2021).

Clearwater 1980 – Clearwater W. How to Make Mannequins // History News. 1980. 35 (12). P. 36–39.

Clifford 1994 – Clifford J. Collecting Ourselves // Pearce S. M. (ed.) Interpreting Objects and Collections. London: Routledge, 1994. P. 258–268.

Colburn 2018 – Colburn M. Curation and Conservation: And Interview with Sarah Scaturro // Fashion Projects: On Fashion Curation. 2018. 5. P. 44–49.

Coleman 1975 – Coleman E. A. For Men Only Exhibition // Brooklyn Museum, Records of the Department of Costumes and Textiles: Exhibitions. Of Men Only [September 18, 1975 – January 18, 1976] [1] Budget. 1975.

Coleman 1978 – Coleman E. A. Exhibits // Proceedings of the Historical Costume and Textile Workshop, June 21–24, 1978. East Lansing: Michigan State University, 1978.

Collection 1913 – The Collection about Which All London Is Talking [advertisement] // The Times. 1913. December 1. P. 66.

Collection of Kudos 1954 – Collection of Kudos for Galanos // LIFE. 1954. November 22. P. 147–148.

Corrigan 2008 – Corrigan P. The Dressed Society: Clothing, The Body and Some Meanings of the World. London: Sage, 2008.

Corset Show Opening 1939 – Corset Show Opening at the Brooklyn Museum. Press Release, August 31, 1939. Brooklyn Museum: Records of the Department of Costumes and Textiles: Exhibitions. Tighten Your Stays Style Foundations: Corsets and Fashion from Yesterday and Today [9/8/1939 – 10/1/1939].

Cosgrave 2009 – Cosgrave B. The Model as Muse: Costume Institute Gala 2009 // The Telegraph. 2009. May 5. fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG5280455/The-Model-as-Muse-Costume-Institute-Gala-2009.html (дата обращения 29.09.2021).

Costume Display 1945 – Costume Display // Examiner. 1945. January 6. P. 4.

Costume Dream 1976 – A Costume Dream Comes True // Sydney Morning Herald. 1976. April 1. P. 12.

Costume Institute Becomes 1945 – Costume Institute Becomes Branch of Metropolitan // Museum News. 1945. 22 (13). P. 1.

Costume Institute 1958 – The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1958.

Costume Institute 1947 – The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum: In Ten Years It Has Grown from an Idea to a Generating Influence on American Fashion // Vogue. 1947. 109 (5). March 1. P. 210–211, 246, 251.